Oil change
Oil change intervals
The 3000 mile oil change interval had a scientific basis when engines used non-multi-weight, non-detergent oil. There are still vehicles that need 3K oil changes, but it’s not because the oil goes bad after 3K miles Eg: Saturn SK.
Dark oil does not indicate the need for an oil change. The way modern detergent motor oil works is that minute particles of soot are suspended in the oil. These minute particles pose no danger to your engine, but they cause the oil to darken. A non-detergent oil would stay clearer. If you never changed your oil, eventually the oil would no longer be able to suspend any more particles in the oil and sludge would form. Fortunately, by following the manufacturer’s recommended oil change interval, you are changing your oil long before the oil has become saturated. The only real way to determine whether oil is truly in need of changing is to have an oil analysis performed. it’s acceptable to err heavily on the safe side and simply follow the manufacturer’s recommended change interval for severe service. [Ref]
Generally, severe service consists of operating the vehicle in a very muddy or dusty areas (because dust particles get through the air filter and contaminate the oil more quickly), operating the vehicle in a very hot areas (heat breaks down oil more quickly), using the vehicle only for short trips in cold weather (the moisture in the oil never gets vaporized), or using the vehicle for towing or when carrying a car-top carrier. If you primarily do freeway driving in moderate weather you do not fall into the severe service category.
Different countries have different maintenance schedules, even for the same car. At least part of the reason is due to the differences in fuel.
Oils and filters
Virtually all modern multi-weight oils are detergent oils. Detergent oil, cleans the soot of the internal engine parts and suspends the soot particles in the oil. The particles are too small to be trapped by the oil filter and stay in the oil until you change it. These particles are what makes the oil turn darker.
The viscosity of multi-weight motor oil is specified using two numbers. The first number is the viscosity when the oil is cold. This is followed by the letter W (which stands for winter, not weight), which is followed by the number that indicates the viscosity when the oil is at operating temperature. The higher the number the thicker the oil. In order to protect an engine at start time, the oil needs to be thinner when cold so it flows freely. Viscosity modifiers are added to the base stock to make the oil flow better when cold, without making the oil too thin when hot. In warm climates, 10W30 is usually an acceptable alternative to the preferred 5W30 and may be used without measurable adverse effects.
Synthetic oils withstand higher temperatures before breaking down, and have more base stock and less viscosity modifiers. In short, synthetic may give you the peace of mind of knowing that you are using an oil that is far better than necessary for your vehicle, but it won’t reduce wear or extend the life of the engine. They don’t give a significant extended change interval.
Filter should be changed at every oil change.
Do not use any oil additives. They provide no benefit and can interfere and react with the additives already present in the oil.
Oil change places
Oil changes are pretty inexpensive when done at a reputable repair shop or dealer. Most dealers offer oil change specials that cost less than the quick-change oil places, and the dealers do a better job and use better filters. Another advantage of having it done at a repair shop or dealer is that you have solid legal proof of the date and mileage when the oil change took place.
- Check Champion Toyota website for coupons.
- 1 to 1.5 hours wait is standard. Have reading material handy.
Some quick-lube places have been known to offer advertised specials that use SAE 30 oil, as opposed to 5W30 or 10W30. Pay the extra for the proper oil, or better yet avoid merchants that try to pull this kind of thing because it’s an indicator that they are less than honest. Insist on the oil that is specified on your filler cap and in your manual.
Pumping the oil out through the dipstick hole instead of removing the drain plug is bad.
Never let a quick-lube place do any mechanical work on your vehicle.. They do no use journeyman mechanics.
You really want to bring your own filter, from the dealer, with you when you go to a quick-lube place. They may take $1 or $2 off the price if you do this but don’t count on it.
Do not let a quick-lube place change or add any fluids other than oil. No transmission fluid, no brake fluid, no power steering fluid, no antifreeze, no oil additives, no fuel additives. It is just too easy for them to use the wrong fluid and cause permanent damage to your vehicle.
Engine flushes pump heated solvent through your engine, supposedly to wash away sludge. But regular oil changes with detergent oil already take care of the sludge problem.
Fuel
6/4/2009: Car milage seems to be roughly 25 mpg.
Brake
Front brakes: pads and rotors. Back brakes: shoes and drums.
Examination
Screetching: metal is embedded into the brake pads to make a sound when the pad is worn out.
While braking, does the vehicle swerve to one side?
If there is thumping or if there is slight screetching, the brake rotor is unevenly worn. Usually, this is solved by turning/ machining the rotor for evenness. This does not cause a safety problem.
History
Got back brakes stocked from the dealer.
Midas, April 2010: Got front brake pads replaced, but refused to machine the rotors for evenness. Was told that the brake pads will last between 30k (city driving) to 60k miles (highway driving). Warranty: Z55330030294 guarantees that I don’t have to .
Brake change places
Buy parts at the dealership, get labor done elsewhere, in places like Brakecheck.
- Midas : 90$ labor 2010, will refuse to replace brake pads if rotors are too worn out to be machined and I refuse to replace them.
- Austin’s finest alignment and brake quoted 75$ for labor.
- Dura Tune refused to use brake pads brought in by customers, as they make money on the pads and have warranty on them. Otherwise quoted 160 for rear brakes.
- Brakecheck told me on phone they won’t do it. But, praveeNa had said that they do it.
Battery
Useful tools and materials
jump-start cables. Portable battery for jump-starting: if it is strong (outputs good 12 volt DC voltage) and is kept charged. (Can rely on alternator for charging only if you drive a really long time.)
Multimeter to check battery, alternator etc..
‘Maintenance free’ batteries usually use better materials, are better sealed.
Problem indicators and response
Weak engine-start. Even if battery is fine, the alternator may not be outputting sufficient electricity.
If the battery is dead, fix the problem: get jump-started or towed to a repair facility. Make sure that the interior/ exterior lights have not been left on, the door has not been left open/ improperly closed etc.. - otherwise you will end up with a dead battery again.
Terminals
Keep the terminals corrosion free: use a spray and metal brush to keep them clean, apply high temperature grease to prevent corrosion. Unclean exterior can reduce power-flow.
Checking goodness
For checking battery, the car should be turned off - otherwise electricity is being produced by the alternator. This is possible only when the battery is sufficiently charged. It should be able to output 12 volts.
To check alternator, rev up the engine. The alternator, which charges the battery, should output 13.6 to 14 volts. When the engine is being accelerated, it should produce around 88 amps.
History
September 2010: The same battery had died. Had driven the car without problems just 4 days before. Used AAA to get a jump-start. Went to Autozone, where I found that the water level was very low - replaced water, managed to start the car again. Bought a maintenance-free battery at Sears Auto-center. That again died by Wednesday: discovered later that the interior light switch was left on. Called AAA again and got it replaced.
April 2010, Midas: Battery (in use since 2003, as indicated by the string ‘C3’) was found to be good, but exterior cleaning was recommended as corrosion was present.
Wheel alignment
Adjustment parameters
Camber: angle to the road.
Toe: Angle from the vertical plane in the direction of the car.
Caster: Angle of the load relative to the tire.
Some (cheap tire-shop) mechanics are unable to adjust camber - which probably requires removal of wheels.
Reputed mechanics
Special repairs
3 parameters: Ability, honesty, expensiveness.
In case body shops are required, ask mechanics you trust.
Negotiating with mechanics
Get at least 3 estimates for any needed repair. Be sure that the repair shop guarantees their work and that they are ASE Certified in that area of repair.
Even if you are getting a free check, you have right to every courtesy as a customer, and for the promised service in full. Be forceful but polite in demanding it. Remember that you can ask to see the boss.
Often in mechanic chains, the mechanic fills out a form with detailed measurements. The sales-person may not give this to you (Example: alignment print-out.). Demand this.
Belonging to a wide-spread mechanic chain does not necessarily ensure quality. True about Goodyear Gemini auto shop; and also about Jiffy Lube as noted from reviews.
Tire
The tires are tubeless! Slow leaks are probably caused by nails stuck in the tyre.
Examination
- Check for uneven tread. Do tire rotation.
- Check tyre air pressure often: 30 psi in general, 60 psi for the spare. Tires loose 2 psi every month. Maybe inflate slightly more. N2 is not required.
Good leak-fixing shops
Leal’s tires at North Lamar and North Loop charged 11$ on Jul 18 2011 to fix a slow leak - no wait was involved : it was a well-tuned process which used many electric tools (uncommon where I come from), and the mechanic was very skilled.
Wipers
Examination
Operate wipers, check for streaks. Wipers which leave streaks are dangerous - they leave stains when used on a hot day to clean the glass; this leads to decreased visiblity.
Solution
Wipers are easy to replace - do it on your own.
Fluid levels
Check for fluid levels, leaks.
Check for engine leaks under car. Note how to check engine oil (black), engine coolant (bright greenish yellow), brake fluid (clear, with slight brown tinge), washer fluid, power steering fluid (clear, with slight brown tinge), automatic transmission fluid (pink) levels.
Engine oil must be changed by a mechanic.
Change transmission fluid, break oil, engine coolant.
Start your own oil change, maintenance schedule.
Check your oil level at least every other fill-up.