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+lA-dAkh

Racially quite mixed - mongoloid and caucasian features galore. There existed some caste structure - still going strong in villages. Some families converted to Islam out of resentment thence.

Accommodation

Guest houses near the market are costly; those far away are much cheaper. They’re usually not centrally heated.

Most places close by October last week, with migrant labor (mostly from the plains) being sent back, and rooms sealed. Water starts freezing in pipes then. Some places keep open a room or two.

Ditto with museums.

Religion

Recorded elsewhere.

Climate and routine

Acclimitization to low oxygen is important. Low dose Dimox helps (but not required for all). Deep frequent breathing works well.
Wild temperature shifts between 3PM (warm) and 3AM (sub-zero).
No daily baths traditionally- especially during winter. Quite frigid. With solar heaters some take late baths.
Rituals like tarpaNa and sandhyAvandana can be quite difficult with freezing fingers, and shoulder muscles tensing from the cold. So, favoring imagination, might be better to sacrifice the outdoor experience.

Culture

Like everywhere, modernity makes people leave traditional values and customs; and go after property and success.

The place was quite impoverished just 25 years ago.

Generally, people are courteous. Almost everyone speaks hindI.

Politics

Locals seem quite distrustful towards BJP.
RSS has a significant presence in Leh. There’s a hindu temple.
There’s generally good amity between buddhists and hindus; and between buddhists and muslims.
- Local buddhists used to visit army temples to get delicious prasAda - especially in days of poverty.
- Hindu merchants used to distribute sweets to festive local buddhist chanting kids. Muslims used to join in for the goodies saying something like “ali”.
The loud muslim mosque prayer calls are quite jarring - in contrast to the generally muted chanting recordings in bauddha temples.
Huge military presence locally.

+lA-dAkh