[[The Dawn of the Hotel Industry in Bangalore Source: prekshaa]]
Note: This is the first of a two-part series of an English translation of D.V. Gundappa’s essay titled “Bengalurinalli Hotel Udyamada Arambha,” the tenth essay in the volume titled “Hrudaya Sampannaru,” in the Jnapaka Chitrashale volumes.
The first person to establish a hotel in Bangalore was a Brahmana hailing from Mulabagal. His name was Avani Narasinga Rao. Avani is a village about five – six miles from Mulabagal. Avani is also known as Avanti Kshetra. Some people call it as Valmiki Ashram. Locals say that Sita Devi gave birth to Lava and Kusha in that village. They point to a pond amid its hilly rocks and say that this was where Sita washed the soiled clothes of her children. There is a Sita Devi temple atop the hill. Some people refer to it as Sitamahalakshmi while others call it Sitagowri.
The cluster of five Shiva Linga temples – Ramalingeshwara, Lakshmanalingeshwara, Bharateshwara, Shatrughneshwara and Anjaneshwara – at the base of the Avani hill are beautiful. They are lovely and elaborate constructions. The lush grass bed inside the temple precincts are truly picturesque. Daily Pujas take place in the traditional method in all five temples and in the Sita Devi temple atop the hill. This place is ideal for those who wish to engage in Tapas and Yoga.
Perhaps a Matha was established there after taking all these into consideration. I think that this Matha was founded by Maharshi Vidyaranya. The name of the Swami of the Matha carries the honorific, “Vidyaranya.”
garalākhyapurē śaṃbhōḥ
suralālita gōpurē ।
kalaśaughaṃ pratiṣṭhāpya
vidyāraṇyō mahāmunē ॥
This is the verse commemorating the consecration of the Kalasha on the dome of the temple in Nanjangud during the regime of Krishnaraja Wodeyar III.
The Dignity of Sri Narasinga Rao
Sri Narasinga Rao hailed from such a place. I have only heard about him, not met him in person. Sri Narasinga Rao used to visit Mulabagal about twice each year. I was maybe five – six years old in those days. A few prominent people in town would be aware of the news of Sri Narasinga Rao’s visit beforehand. They would discuss among themselves, “Narasinga Rao might come tomorrow…perhaps day after.” Some would refer to him in the singular and others in the plural. On one occasion when this discussion was going on, I questioned my younger grandfather. He said: “He’s from Avani. He has established a hotel in Bangalore and made tons of money. Now, because he’s a wealthy guy, people have started addressing him in the plural.”
Sri Narasinga Rao used to arrive in a Special Jataka [horse-carriage] either from Kolar or Bowringpet. A group of eight or ten people would receive him. After he got down from the carriage, a couple of people would offer him lemon and exchange pleasantries. A couple of others would carry his luggage and place it in his lodgings. I recall witnessing this celebration.
The Hotel of the Avanis
Avani Narasinga Rao’s hotel was located on the left row of Chickpet after eight – ten houses from the junction where Doddapet and Chickpet met. It was close to the shop of “Rajasevasakta,” the late Pamadi Subbarama Shetty. I have heard old folks refer to it as the “hotel of the Avanis.”
It appears that Avani Narasinga Rao was a connoisseur. He had maintained a second family. He was also generous. He was a benefactor of many Pujas in temples whenever he came to our town. He gave generous donations to Brahmanas. I can’t say when he passed away. Perhaps when the first plague struck Bangalore: I guess it was around 1898 – 99.
The second hotel that I saw in Bangalore belonged to Sri Venkanna. He too, was a Brahmana. When we turn to Arcot Srinivasacharlu Street from Chickpet, there was a house on the left: the fourth or fifth building. It belonged to Government Advocate, S. Narayana Rao. It was built from mortar, a massive house in those days. For a few years, a famous person named Pashupati Iyer used to carry on the businesses of mill yarn and moneylending from there. Pashupati Iyer originally hailed from Madras. He was a great source of assistance to the politicians of that era. V.V.S. Iyer, Subrahmaniya Bharatiyar, E.L. Iyer and other revolutionary patriots belonged to that group. Sri Venkanna’s hotel cum home appeared stuck to the southern portion of Pashupati Iyer’s house. I am referring to the period of 1905 – 6.
Registration
In those days, I used to live in Chamarajpet. It was common to hear the praise of Sri Venkanna quite frequently in the neighbourhood. If you arrived home late, the invariable question was: “You’d been to Venkanna’s hotel, right?” or, “Who knows what you’ve gobbled in Venkanna’s hotel? That’s why you’re not hungry!” This was how Venkanna’s name was remembered at all times.
My curiosity inflamed, I asked a friend to take me there. He said: “I’ll take you there next Sunday.”
Me: “Why the delay?”
He: “You won’t get a place to sit in Venkanna’s hotel if you go whenever you feel like it. You must pay money in advance and register your name.”
And so it happened thus. Within 4 P.M. on Saturday, one had to pay four or eight annas as advance and mention the exact number of people who would be coming the next day and register our names.
My First Meeting
In this manner, my friend Sheshagiri made the aforementioned arrangement and took me there one Sunday. It was about 7:30 in the morning. Venkanna employed no staff. The moment he saw us, Venkanna asked:
“Are you Brahmanas?”
“Yes”
“Did you finish your bath?”
“Yes”
“Why is there no Vibhuti on your forehead? There, it’s there in that box. Apply it.”
I applied the Vibhuti. By then, three people who had arrived before us were seated on the floor, their backs to the wall. The two of us joined them. Venkanna gave each of us a slice of plantain leaf. He emerged from the kitchen with fresh, hot dosas and served two each to the three who had come before us. Chutney along with it. Our turn was next.
[[The Dawn of the Hotel Industry in Bangalore: Venkanna’s Hotel Menu and Social Norms Source: prekshaa]]
Note: This is the second of a two-part series of an English translation of D.V. Gundappa’s essay titled “Bengalurinalli Hotel Udyamada Arambha,” the tenth essay in the volume titled “Hrudaya Sampannaru,” in the Jnapaka Chitrashale volumes.
Decamping
Before the food arrived to serve our turn, another person entered. My friend poked my elbow and said, “Your elder uncle is arriving.” The moment I heard those words, I stood up as if a scorpion had bit me and decamped from there. My friend followed me as well.
This “elder uncle” was a cousin of my father, akin to an elder brother. His name was Sheenappa. He hailed from Somattanahalli. I hadn’t seen Sri Sheenappa till then but had only heard his name. Sheenappa had taken bath and finished his Sandhyavandanam before coming here. His forehead was covered with Vibhuti. His hair, which was still wet after bath was dangling and held together with a knot. A Rumal over his head. A coat and silk cloth over his body. Rings on the fingers of both hands. He worked as a clerk in the Mandi—a huge one at that. Sri Sheenappa’s financial condition was quite good. He owned a house and some land. He was loud and aggressive by nature. Very traditional and orthodox. He used to perform the Suryanamaskara every Sunday. I learnt all these details much later.
There was a reason I ran out of the hotel the moment he stepped in: I shouldn’t be seen in a hotel by elders. This was the social norm of that period. Those who ate in hotels were regarded as uncultured, of a lesser rank; it was not good form – this was the public opinion in those days. The only people who would go to hotels were those who came from other towns and had no other accommodation; or those who like Sri Sheenaappa, were widowers. Hotel meals was not a mark of good conduct. This was the general social consensus of the period. I adhered to it.
After we both emerged from Venkanna’s hotel, we didn’t go too far away from it but hung around in the general vicinity. Fifteen or twenty minutes passed. After we saw our Sheenappa coming out, we went inside once again. Sri Venkanna asked us:
“Why did you scoot like thieves?”
We told the truth.
Sri Venkanna: “Oho! Is that right? Shall I tell Sheenappa?”
We were laughing by now. After that, it was our turn to eat the Dosas. It had a fine consistency. Both consistency and taste – aren’t these great qualities?
The System
Sri Venkanna’s hotel was divided into three parts using a canopy made of wooden planks:
- The first division was the front portion of the kitchen. It sported a notice that read, “for Vaidika Brahmanas only.” 2. The second compartment sported a notice that said, “for Laukika [worldly] Brahmanas only.” 3. The third read, “for non-Brahmins.”
Beyond the third compartment, a huge drum filled with water was placed on a stool. Next to it was a large bucket. On another stool was placed a newspaper containing Shikhakai powder and a scrap of old Dhoti. The Dosa patrons had to drop their leaves in the bucket. Then they would take a bit of the Shikhakai powder in their hand, open the tap of the water drum, wash their hands, and if they so wished, wiped their hands dry using the dhoti scrap. Then they would return inside and sit in their assigned places as before. Coffee would arrive now. While drinking it, the edge of the coffee cup should not touch the lips, it had to be lifted up slightly—the liquid should directly enter the mouth.
I’m not exaggerating in the least. Sri Venkanna was an extremely strict and systematic man. If anybody violated the aforementioned rule even slightly, he would be ruthless in saying, “Please take this cup and throw it there and come back.” Therefore, people who went there were those who discerned both taste and hygiene. His was not a “Janata” (mass) hotel.
Menu
Neither did Sri Venkanna aspire to attract “Janata,” or the masses. Excluding Sunday, only four or five people would come there for meals. Sri Venkanna wouldn’t entertain a sixth person. On Saturday afternoons, folks would come for some light snacks. Sri Venkanna would offer them two items of light tiffin, a [sweet] Rava laddoo, and Kodubale; or a spicy ball made of Moong Dal and some Ompudi; or [sweet] Sajjappa and spicy Avalakki [flat rice]. These delicacies would be exhausted by five in the evening. I’ve personally come back empty-handed even when I went there at 5:15 p.m. On Sundays—like I have described earlier—Dosa, Chutney and coffee were the only items on the menu: prepared only for a specific number of people.
Sri Venkanna’s friends would ask him: “Hotels are newly sprouting up in the city. Can’t you change your style of business?” I have myself heard Sri Venkanna’s reply: “This much of earning is enough to fill my stomach sir. Do you want me to lose my tradition and discipline by opting to earn more money? Whatever God has given me is more than sufficient.”
Competition of Dosas
After two or three years following the aforementioned period, a kind of competition occurred in the hotel business. A dispute regarding rates arose between a hotel near the Kalamma Temple and another in Chickpet. The first one advertised, “One Dosa and curry for six kaasu.” The other, “One Dosa and curry for five kaasu.” The six-kaasu guy reduced his price to four. In response, the five-kassu guy reduced his price to three. This went on for a couple of months. Then a news began to circulate: “You say that the Dosa in that fellow’s hotel is tasty. You know why? It contains egg.” After this sort of news began to spread, business at both places nosedived. This was a two-month-long chaos.
********
After this, the name that came to prominence in the hotel business was Sri K.T. Appanna’s Hindu Coffee Club.
Concluded